Evangel-eeesh!

I'm small-town hick enough to get all excited when P'land gets featured in a national publication (which is actually often, jussayin') but this one gave me a bit of a yick factor. "10 Great Places to Master Art of French Eating" includes Evangeline, a restaurant I've only driven past, along with 9 other U.S.'traunts in cities like Las Vegas, San Francisco, Chicago, DC, and NYC (ever heard of 'em?) "Chef Erik Desjarlais describes his menu as 'rock and roll French,' and he's spot-on. At Evangeline, nose-to-tail dining meets French technique: Think crispy roasted calf brains and roasted beef shins with warm marrow for spreading on crusty bread." Err...Rock'n'Roll....!.....? Think Ozzy Bites Head Off Dove as in Think it's cool to sacrifice living icons of purity and peace. I thought we were past this. I've got no beef with USING the entire animal after its already been slaughtered, but baby brains? I don't wanna sound non-Rock'n'Roll French or hayseed, but do people go for this? I guess I can't be surprised considering this is the same lot of cuisine that mutilizes baby calves in search of stomach enzymes for their mumma milk processing properties, all in the name of CHEESE, is nothing sacred! Mon Dieu!